Although Cafe Sacher is the name most bandied about in the history books, a more likely contender for Vienna's confectionery crown is this longstanding haunt on the Kohlmarkt. A former K. und K. purveyor to the crown, Demel's is still going strong today. If you're a doubting Thomas as to whether confectionery can honestly be called a high art - Demel may provide the answer. Not exactly a humble place, Demel's provides a gloriously over the top experience - fantasy remains the order of the day. The legendary window displays - now orchestrated by master confectioner Kurt Nitsche - have long been a favourite with Viennese kiddies. In recent times, a glass wall has been installed within the inner sanctum so you can watch the chocolatiers go about their business. Alas, owing to the easy-going Austrian temperament, marzipan wars are a rare occurence, but hope springs eternal....